The next step is to replace the stock springs with the new springs and shims. Clean up any dust or particles in the accumulator, and spread a thin coating of new transmission fluid in the bore. My accumulator wasn't very glazed to begin with, sometimes they are though. It is recommended that you use a scotch brite pad to clean up the glazed bores to prevent chatter, and improve lubrication.
Remove the remaining 7, 8mm bolts, and carefully separate the accumulator. They just pull straight out there are no clips or seals holding them in.Īccumulator removed: Fluid will continue to drip for hours after these parts are removed, so keep that pan under there. Once it's out of its spot, the lines can then be removed from the accumulator. Once they are removed, wiggle the accumulator out of its spot, being careful not to bend the lines. So remove only the labeled bolts while it's in the transmission: The remaining 7 are to separate the two halves of the accumulator. All of the bolts are 8mm, but only 4 are holding the assembly to the transmission. The next step is to remove the accumulator assembly. Avoid pulling it on too much of an angle because the snout is plastic and may break off. Then remove the old filter by pulling straight down. (110k miles on possibly the original transmission fluid) Pan removed: Thank god, no metal flakes or chunks. Letting it hang by too few bolts may bend the pan. Once you're at the last 5 or so, and the fluid has stopped dripping, hold the pan up with your hand and remove the remaining bolts at once. Start removing the 10mm bolts from the transmission in one area first, making your way to the other side. Then position the drip pan under the transmission pan in the area you want it to start dripping first. The first step after making sure you have all things needed is to raise and support the car with jack stands. Removing the battery for at least an hour should reset the computer, and assure that shifts will be "re-learned". The difference in new fluid may cause shifts to be slower because the computer needs to adjust to the different flow properties of the new fluid, changing shift times according to the pressure. You should remove the negative battery terminal before starting. It also includes updated parts to fix common 4T65E issues that require tearing the trans apart to replace(not installed as part of the shift kit) a picture is below of the included items. You will not use the yellow spring, and one of the red springs. Two plain springs, two red springs, two white springs, one yellow spring, two long spacers, and one short spacer. The things included in the shift kit portion are: Other things that would help are: Torque wrench in inch pounds, Gasket Scraper, pocket screwdriver, gloves 4t65e's 2006 and later, and earlier that have already been rebuilt should use VI) You will need 7.5-10 quarts, Transmission Filter, Shift kit, drip pan(7 quarts or more), jack + jack stands, towels, ratchet, extension, parts tray, a 10mm, and 8mm socket (6 point sockets only). Trans fluid: Dexron III or VI (I prefer III for 4t65e's pre-2006 and on the original build. It's pretty much instant now, while still being smooth. Whereas before, I would feel the power stop, the engine rev, then power to the wheels. It's definitely not a kit that will make the wheels chirp (if you want that, look elsewhere) but they are very snappy. Another good thing that came out of it is that my downshifts under acceleration are much quicker. Even over 200° with the shift kit installed, the shifts don't get nearly as slow as they used to, and I doubt max adapt will ever come back. I installed it to help with my max adapt problem resulting from slow shifts. My regular up shifts were already very fast to begin with when the trans was below 200☏.
4l60e shift kit pdf Patch#
In my opinion, it's a "This is how the car should have come" patch kit. I am very happy with the results of this shift kit. This is not needed if you've been following the recommended service intervals of at most every 50k miles. I also did a transmission fluid exchange that I will include at the very bottom. While you are that far in the transmission, you would have already removed the things to do a pan drop service, so fluid and a filter will be included in this write-up. This write-up can also be used for other shift kits, just use the instructions you got once you get to rebuilding the accumulator. It's still overall an easy thing to do, and doesn't require many tools.
The accumulator must also be removed and "rebuilt". Difficulty would be a 3/5 since you have to do a little more than dropping the pan. I performed it on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix, but would work for any other car with the 4t65E. This is my first write-up/how to, and will be on installing a TransGo shift kit on the 4T65E Transmission.
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